The recap is here, and if I was sitting at the judges table I’d be hoisting the 10 card for the whole season. Rules were broken, designers upped the ante on logocentrism, some went intergalactic, and some kept it real while still maintaining commercial appeal. The runways were wondrous, and here I’ve pulled my lucky 7 looks from New York Fashion Week to dissect:
Anna Sui: Coachella darlings, rejoice! Your collection is here and it’s never looked more haute-hippie must-have. Sui’s attention to detail tandem with her ability to make you smile in each of her presentations is a rare and beautiful talent. Where the styling and makeup were soft, the edge came in colorblocked panels and earthbound psychedelia. Against a backdrop inspired by The Fool, a collective behind works for Eric Clapton and John Lennon, there’s no scarcity of sixties here.
Jeremy Scott: The only front row star should have been Judy Jetson. Better yet, our intergalactic homegirl should’ve made a cameo walk down this runway sporting a “Mars or Bust” sweater over an off-air teeny bikini. Running with the same group of designers who don’t care about current trends and care about an authentic aesthetic, Scott took us out of the airwaves and into hyperspace. How else are up and coming It Girls going to make a statement in street style? Front row fan Nicki Minaj surely will. A nod to the sixties mod comes through in Nancy Sinatra go-go boots and bouffant wigs. This show interrupted our regularly scheduled NYFW programming in the best way.
Marc Jacobs: Victorian shipwreck frat party? Sure, why not. Besides, it’s Marc. He threw some serious shade on the minimal looks that have blanketed runways with a simple “I don’t have a single friend who wears all white.” But then, Marc’s always been attracted to the woman who can bring home the bacon and fry it in the pan. Only this time, it’s probably a tropical bird shot out of the air in a bitchin’ shipwrecked captain’s coat. Rich brocade, opulent notions, vibrant prints and an oversized silhouette make the collection look like the lost boys looted Captain Hook’s wardrobe. And with a runway scattered with torn up fashion magazines and 7-Eleven cups, it was a party worth getting lost in.
3.1 Phillip Lim: Fuck yea, GEODES! I had the geekiest moment when I saw this collection that I don’t even care about the Target collaboration. This collection is the reason I keep returning to fashion week. We all know the show stoppers, the ones that keep us talking long after and even more importantly, when the next season rolls around and we reflect with a nostalgic sigh of how awesome it was. Lim took his sculptural skills to delicate embroidery in organza. Hard as a rock, soft as a feather. How space age and earthbound are we getting here?! I love it.
Band of Outsiders: Maybe it’s because rip-stop nylon isn’t a textile we’re used to on runways, but Band of Outsiders likes to play with the idea of also using your clothes as shelter in the event that you may get stranded on your hike. I think it’s the past four years I’ve spent in the mountains, seeing North Face rain jackets worn over maxi dresses in an oddly functional/fashionable hybrid that only comes from weathering the elements that draws me to this collection. She looks like she’s going to an apparel design class right after yoga, and if we could all have yoga pants this chic, I’d wear nothing else.
Opening Ceremony: I don’t need to remind you how cool the show was. Supercars, super style and super street. Everything in separates, versatile in many ways yet in some, you need the whole package. One walk through an O.C. store or perusing their site tells us that it’s up to the buyer what he or she wants to be in the clothes. An unbound aesthetic is always appreciated.
Alexander Wang: If I had a dollar for every logo-damning Op/Ed I’ve read this year, I’d have enough to buy one of the bags they continuously mention as being uncool. But Wang doesn’t give a shit, especially at this point in his career. We’ve been paying so much attention to his presentations at Balenciaga that maybe we needed a reminder of where he came from. This finale piece has his name written all over it. What better way than an Alexander Advisory? Explicit use of namesake.